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  • Homebuilt Driveshaft Tech

    I tripped over this & figured I'd repost it. It's on the old forum, which is still floating around the web. Originally posted June, 2007 LINK


    When I installed my rebuilt transfrecase, I drilled out the adapter so that I could remove the clocking ring. This shortened the distance between the front axle and the x-fer case. Well, it was enought to require me to have to take a chunk out of the front shaft. It was too long (I made it) even with with the clocking ring setup! I'm really surprised I never had a problem with it.

    First off, here are the 3 major types of driveshaft yokes:
    A CV yoke, a U-bolt yoke, and a strap yoke.


    A double-cardan (called a "CV" by many):



    When I first started working with CV driveshafts, I was hoping the U-joint yoke would work with it. This pic clearly shows how the bolt patterns are off. This is a u-joint yoke up against the CV joint:


    Pic of the proper yoke on a CV:



    The 'shaft before shortening. This was originally a TJ front shaf that I cut a few inches out of. I obviously mis-measured, because it is too long by an inch or so.


    Here's what the splines look like. The TJ's have a shock-boot-looking thing that keeps the wather and dirt out of this thing-- those boots don't hold up to rocks well. Anyway, the blue stuff is some sort of plastic coating that helps keep things moving. Probabally teflon or UHMW. Note- before you go taking the splined yoke off-- mark it's proper location on the splined shaft and it's relation ot the opposite yoke. These things are balanced, and you want to put the weights back in the same place when it is all back together!



    Cut- that small secton on the spline shaft is how much I'll be taking out of the shaft.


    These are two of the key tools that make driveshaft work easier: Metal lathe and dial indicator. Here I am zeroing the spline shaft in the lathe.


    Turning the weld and collar off the spline shaft. It comes right off once enough metal is removed. Of course be careful not to take any off the outside surface of the tube land on the spline shaft.



    Cleaned up, sanded lightly, and champfered for welding. I was amazed when I first did a driveshaft to find out how little of the spline shaft protrudes into the tube itself.


    The spline shaft is pressed (hammered) into the tube-- note the champfering to allow for good weld penetration.


    Checking the spline shaft for true-- This is not the most accureate way of doin this, but it will get you within a few thousandths. The best way is on the lathe, between centers, with the dial indicator. My lathe is too short between centers to do this shaft-- Driveshaft runout spec is something like 0.005. I like to shoot for 0.000 when I can. :D


    Welded up and ready for install! It works great, no vibes at speed.
    'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
    1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

  • #2
    Nice write up..if you don't have a lathe can a grinder be used?

    Are all the joints 1310? The bigger one looks like 1330.
    Chris


    2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    5.7 hemi
    Quadra drive 2

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    • #3
      Very nice info Pete. I think Im going to need to book some time at Tall Peter's driveshafts soon. Need some XJ front shafts turned into YJ shafts.

      Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
      Steve Pic
      ____________

      90 YJ 4.0 , AW4/D300 4 to 1, D60/14 bolt , under construction
      92 XJ 4dr stock Daily Driver
      2 days on the trail in the last 32 months, last day 20 months ago BLB 2010

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