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Project 2nd Hand YJ build

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    Today wasn't as productive since I finally had to go to work. But I finished the SYE. With the 100s of wrenches and thousands of sockets I have I couldn't find one to fit the darn front yoke ...so I made my own tool. Worked like a charm.

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    Today was welding day. The passenger front spring hanger had a cracked weld. I cut the weld out, and filled it, then went back over it with a bigger bead. 2 of the body mounts were bent. I hammered them straight and put a stitch to hold them up. No pics, but the passenger frame horn was bent in and a stuck/broken bolt. Got the bolt out, straightened out, and welded in a new nut on both sides. Also got the shock tabs in on the rear. The grill is also repaired and the extended bumpers are on the bottom. SYE install is also underway. The tub will go on Saturday evening!! The other pics are the new 92 - 95 wrangler dash harness, and some new dash accessories .

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  • Pete
    replied
    Its a good feeling when the grill goes back on. Makes start to look like a jeep again!

    its looking good man.

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  • sottiriou88
    replied
    Starting to look like a Jeep again with the grill mocked up in place. Looking good

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    Another day, more checked off the infinite list. Played with some paint yesterday ... a nice 15' job. Just need to weld on the rear shock tabs and the rear suspension will be done. When I bought shocks I wasn't planning on lift shackles, so I may need longer ones eventually. Since the CPU needs a speed signal, and the analog Speedo would need swapped out, I decided to change the whole dash. Keeping the dash pad, installing a Tuffy security glovebox, removing the plastic and gauges, covering the sub dash with diamond plate, using the 6 in one gauge, a switch panel, aftermarket warning lights, and stock hvac controls. Important functions needed for operation stay stock, everything else is aftermarket. New speedometer runs off of GPS.

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  • warthog_cj7
    replied
    That's definately true on the wheeled hard. Seen that rig does some pretty awesome obstacles before getting dismantled.

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    The OEM one are the same part number. As for the Daystar. .they aren't marked in anyway...this frame has been wheeled pretty hard..was thinking it could be tweaked a little. Was missing a stock shackle mount, and found a cracked weld for the other front spring hanger.

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  • Pete
    replied
    looks good man!

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  • warthog_cj7
    replied
    Are the motor brackets (to motor) on the correct side? There is a difference (I'm really guilty of this one. What's the best way to learn, screw it up and do it again, got a long list of those too...)

    Always cool for progress. Keep it up.

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    Got some more work done today, front shocks, front lift shackles, 35s, used extended lug nuts to be sure I would get sufficient threads on the lugs, and went to OEM motor mounts which allowed me to get the trans into it's proper alignment. The daystar mounts had it clocked to the driver side a little.

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    Today I picked up the flexplate from Doug. Packaged accordingly. Just need to apply threadlocker and torq the bolts down. Engine mount bolt went in after loosening the new mounts more. Tomorrow the trans and new Skid will be installed. Looking at maybe being able to place the tub on the 14th.

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    I'm getting the flexplate tomorrow, so no need to install the trans twice. I get the new trams skid tomorrow also, if it comes early enough I'll see if the trans being hooked up will align it properly.

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  • warthog_cj7
    replied
    Is the engine in line w/ frame (sometimes hard to eyeball correctly)? Possible once you have trans hooked up and hovering over where it secures may pull the engine in correct alignment to secure. Just bolt trans to block, don't need torque conv, etc. just for aligning purposes.

    May need to enlongate a bolt hole in side to side manner at frame side, slight amount, but not keep width to bolt/stud width. Just make sure if you don't and do get them to force in your not putting a lot of stress pressure on the mounts. Over time the side mount would cut through the poly lip to be metal on metal from side, sure the center w/ bolt supported but side would wear probably the galvanized mount to match where engine wants to sit.

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  • BasicJeepster
    replied
    If the motor mount could spin toward the front of the motor just a bit the bolt could slide through, or the passenger side spins counter clockwise. I was losing daylight. I'm sure tomorrow I'll get it. Maybe with a 2nd set of hands If it doesn't go through tomorrow

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  • warthog_cj7
    replied
    Nice.
    Motor mount not lining up which way to motor or to frame?

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