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Got the rear axle out yesterday-- found some interesting things... :-k
First off-- my suspicions were accurate. I had set up the carrier pre-load on this axle before I purchased my case spreader. This allows for extra play in the bearings. The diff literally fell right out, and there is sign of the passengerside bearing race spinning in it's bore. #-o See the extra shiny band on the bearing race? (to the left of the copper tube)
Some extra shimming and use of the case spreader solved that.
The drivers side alloy shaft appears to have had a bit too much torque-- I was quite shocked by this discovery. Not to mention a bit crestfallen.
Seems like I never pressed in the passenger side axle seal-- that's why it was leaking! #-o See evidence here of it spinning in the axle tube.
Got the diff back in and pre-loaded correctly-- the cover was showing it's age -- the bolts were worn so thin I had to drill the one out (nothing left of the Allen socket) I chose to add a bit of material for the rocks to chew on.
tle ladder bar mount, in progress. Next up it to add the outboard mounting tabs. I plan on having this complete by bedtime tonight.
Pete, Nice work. I don't know that I have ever seen a model 20 take that much abuse. Good repair work. Are you going to warranty that axle or just run it???
wow, nice work. The more metal on that tracbar the better.. They see a ton of leverage, I would be very worried about the lower mount just having those two bolts. It might not be that bad SUA but tie the side into the pig.
wow, nice work. The more metal on that tracbar the better.. They see a ton of leverage, I would be very worried about the lower mount just having those two bolts. It might not be that bad SUA but tie the side into the pig.
I'm with you on that Rob-- the photo doesn't show the underside-- there's a bit more goin gon underneath-- more pics to come
Well, I got a few hours in last night and then a few more this AM--
Some detail shots of the ladder bar mount:
Front-on of that bolt-on mount-- you can see the sandwiching here- I'm not sure why that one weld got so porous-- any suggestions from you schooled welders? :-k
bottom of lower mount
looking from the back - I'm thinking of adding a little tab to triangulate the upper left mount seen here-- jus to be sure...
painted
leaf spring straightening-- it's alot harder than I thought-- which is great-- I think they will hold their shape, with the addition of the ladder bar. It is amazing to think of how much torque it takes to bend 4 leaves-- straightening one is a royal PITA!
Pete on the porousity is usually due to contamination in the weld. Where the 2 pcs joined together, you probably cleaned the surface on the outside, did you also clean on the inside? During good penetration, the puddle will extend to the bottom of the joint and pull any impurities through to the top of the puddle, thus creating the porous look. For inspections, X-rays of the joints are used to detect these pores.
On the tube across the top o the pumpkin, did you weld that to the housing? Couldn't tell from the pics.
Looks really good.
Dan M.
Former President, Secretary, Treasurer 48 days on trail in 2012!
'85 CJ7 - 4.0L,T-18,4.10s,Locked F&R,35s,Caged,Winch
'68 Kaiser Jeep M715 body transplant on '90 Dodge W350 in progress
Hmmm-- those pieces ere pretty clean-- mabe some hunk of grease jumped in there at the last minute... 8-[
Thanks!
The tube is welded to the housing-- front and back. I didn't weld it-- the folks that did the shaving, retube, and all did that-- I'm pretty sure it was Tri-County gear out in Ca. Mike sold me this axle-- he knows for sure.
This is the last of the intense stuff Mike-- next up will be adding more tube to the cage and getting the spare mounted inside.
I did drive it around the block the other day... 8-[
Seriously-- I'll be daily driving it for a least a week, and also taking it over to the loading docks in Middlesex to flex it out and see how the Krawlers (borrowing Rob K's) fit.
This is the last of the intense stuff Mike-- next up will be adding more tube to the cage and getting the spare mounted inside.
Hey Peter... When I mounted my spare inside, I used the factory mount off the the rear door, mounted it to the floor. i put pieces of 1/4" plate under the body to prevent the bolts from being able to rip out. Just an idea. Some people mount spares up higher, but I would rather load gear on top rather then always have it high, and mount gear under.
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