The Next NJJC meeting is the third Tuesday of every month, -- 7:30PM at JP Auto in Chester, NJ. Typically meetings are at the Nielsen dealership but due to COVID-19 we had to temporarily relocate. Nielsen (formerly Warnock) Jeep in East Hanover. DETAILS!
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Looks good.
On the filters in the tank, what is the rubber hose you used at the ends? Regular fuel injection hose?
Thanks Dan. Yes and no. It is some type of new were hose for fuel injection that will handle just about any type of fuel imaginable. It was like 6 or 7 dollars a foot :p
ok, cus the outer wrap of a regular FI hose will break down in gas.
Dan M.
Former President, Secretary, Treasurer 48 days on trail in 2012!
'85 CJ7 - 4.0L,T-18,4.10s,Locked F&R,35s,Caged,Winch
'68 Kaiser Jeep M715 body transplant on '90 Dodge W350 in progress
I used regular FI hose in my tank to put the filters in opposing corners. The gas broke down the outter wrap and I have small chunks floating throughout (can see when look in w/ flashlight). It's still on the to do list to clean out. In Nov when I pulled the pump prefilter didn't see any in there, but know I need to address as I'm sure the large chunks will start to become smaller and smaller pieces.
That's why I asked what you used so if something special on outter wrap I might get it. You got a link so can look up some specs?
Dan M.
Former President, Secretary, Treasurer 48 days on trail in 2012!
'85 CJ7 - 4.0L,T-18,4.10s,Locked F&R,35s,Caged,Winch
'68 Kaiser Jeep M715 body transplant on '90 Dodge W350 in progress
Here is what you need, its submersible fuel line. Made to be inside the tank. Submersible line has a SAE 30R10 rating, its designed for in tank use. Anything else will break down.
Dan M.
Former President, Secretary, Treasurer 48 days on trail in 2012!
'85 CJ7 - 4.0L,T-18,4.10s,Locked F&R,35s,Caged,Winch
'68 Kaiser Jeep M715 body transplant on '90 Dodge W350 in progress
Did any of you guys buy that in-tank hose yet? Apparently, the hose I have is not the submersible type, and I only need about 4" of the stuff. At $25 a foot, I figure we can do a group buy. ;)
In other news, I am STILL in AN plumbing hell. getting the right fittings, the correct combination of fittings, and the correct tube for the correct fittings is driving me crazy and putting more of our $$ in Summit Racing & Jegs coffers...
A few things I have learned:
1. AN fittings are fawking expensive.
2. The AN flare is 37*, not the 45* that brake line flares are. It takes a special flare tool. The cheap one is $30 and takes a bit of modification to work on stainless tube. The good one is well over $100 and probably doesn't work any better on stainless tube.
3. Stainless tube crushes easily. Stainless tube is also very smooth & slippery.
4. Different AN fittings have specific names. Hose ends, ferrules, couplers, swivels, male, female, etc. Read up & be familiar with them before ordering! (elbows are not called elbows, they are just designated by how much angle the elbow has )
5. Jegs has some fittings that Summit doesn't, and vice-versa
6. Teflon (PTFE) hose is wonderful, and costs about the same as regular fuel injection grade hose, but it takes special hose ends. Be sure you are ordering the correct hose ends for the hose you like!
7. Hose ends are available with mostly female AN fittings. Very few have male AN ends. Not sure why. This requires using double male couplers. See #5 above
8. Use some sort of lubrication/anti-seize when assembling them. Aluminum LOVES to gall & seize!
9. 3/8 tube is not the same as -6AN hose.
10. "Step 8" will be used frequently when trying to figure out what the hell you need. Plan it out on paper!
11. AN fittings and braided stainless hose look sexy as hell, but will that really count when it is buried somewhere unseen in your jeep and will be covered in mud, oil, grease, road grime, etc in a years time? Well, at least it will look good if I roll it over. :)
No on buying the in-tank hose, haven't gotten around to it and the $$ thing..
Yep, for all, on the AN fittings. Even after putting it to paper, will still end up getting some of the wrong ones... Plus some of the items I needed were in kits, but not available indiv..dumb. But was able to return what not used in kit.
I researched and did all options to avoid the 37* flare, as the tooling was more expensive than the frequency I'd use it.
What stainless are you trying to flare? Brake?
If fuel, why not just go braided line, more flexible and better options for connections. I ended up using 20' of S.S braided line (SUM-230820 - summit), it cost $84 at the time. I had to go 20' as I have a return line and didn't know about the in tank pump/regulator at the time.
Dan M.
Former President, Secretary, Treasurer 48 days on trail in 2012!
'85 CJ7 - 4.0L,T-18,4.10s,Locked F&R,35s,Caged,Winch
'68 Kaiser Jeep M715 body transplant on '90 Dodge W350 in progress
If fuel, why not just go braided line, more flexible and better options for connections. I ended up using 20' of S.S braided line (SUM-230820 - summit), it cost $84 at the time. I had to go 20' as I have a return line and didn't know about the in tank pump/regulator at the time.
I wanted to plumb the frame stuff in hardline. I like the way it looks (more like OEM) and I think it it more durable. I was going to go with plated steel, but then saw the Stainless, and you know me & stainless. :)
Plumbing the MJ trans lines partially in AN and aluminum tube, I had a different experience using AN fittings. I was confused about what to buy, and it took me some time and two small orders. The aluminum tube was easy to work with but by the end of fitting and bending it got all scratched and scrapped because its so soft. the flairs were easy to make but then I had some tall guy lend me his already modified flair tool. The simple tube ends and and ferrels were cheap each part is about $1.00 but they come separately which I didn't realize. So if your plumbing tube and can bend it yourself and don't need any special adapting connectors it is cheap. Its when you need the adapting connectors it gets more pricey.
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