~ The Barnacle ~ [CJ-7]

[Blue]

why are you doing front and rear instead of right and left

[Jeep-Power]

why are you doing front and rear instead of right and left

Having it this way will essentially give me a hand brake and lock all four wheels when I pull both.

Two solenoids on the axle will allow me to lock either the left or right with the flip the switch. I can also wire it to lock both of them , as a third option, and give me a hand free.

Yeah, it's a little unorthodox, but sometimes that's how I roll. :cool:

[cell post]

[Blue]

It just seams over complicated when would you be using the hand brakes over just hitting the brakes

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Jeep-Power]

It just seams over complicated when would you be using the hand brakes over just hitting the brakes

wax on - wax off, grasshopper...

[2001TJ]

How much clearance is there between the brakes and the dash? From the pics, it looks like a bit of an obstruction but that could just be the angle.

[Kledder]

When I had mine setup for left and right I found that it didn't work very well. More often than not it would just pull through the locked wheel instead of turning like I wanted to. I had to lock both to really get it to turn. I think the way you have it setup is perfect. My guess is you will find that you don't need to add the individual rears.

[Jeep-Power]

Chris, there is about an inch and a half between the dash in the knobs. its sits perfectly at arms length, for me.


Kevin, I'm going to take that suggestion and hold off on the solenoids, for now. It will save me at least 150 dollars and a few hours work. Thanks for both of these ideas! ( it was kevin who gave me the idea for splitting the brakes front and rear)
[cell post]

[Jeep-Power]

I hit a snag in the cutting/staging brake setup. This assembly has only one input. I will not be able to isolate the front & rear hydraulic circuits using it. Space is very tight here-- this thing barely fits, so putting one of their other systems in isn't an option. CNC does not make this style with separate inputs for each cylinder. I may have to run it as it was meant to be and put a solenoid in for the front axle.

Any suggestions?

CNC's Website

[Kledder]

Could run two of these side by side. Little pricey though

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...ke-p-2177.html

[Jeep-Power]

Kev- i was looking at those, but there is literally no room for them. I am wondering if I can either modify this one to work as two singles or possibly get one that way from CNC. Gonna call them now.

[Fuzzy]

just so I understand - The stick is "pull back for brake", right? You wanted one lever to control Front and the other Rear and you were going to put locking solenoids on the axles to be able to freeze individual brakes - so that would be four solenoids and switches. However, since there is only one input line, you basically lose your dual master cylinder. How about two of the two-way handles? One handle for rear and one for front? That way, both handles back is front and rear left, and both forward is front and rear right. Not good for stopping but sounds killer for maneuvering!

the two way handles have their two cylinders above and below the pivot, so they look to be quite a bit narrower than the side by side you currently have. No solenoids necessary with this setup!

[Fuzzy]

You know what? I had another thought....a bandsaw, a mill and a lathe...... Hmmm - enquiring minds want to know!

[DaveTVH]

How about no cutting brake handle
4 switches and selonoids
Step on brakes
Hit switch for selonoid to lock that wheel
Go
Turn switch off

Just a thought

sent by Dave on Samsung note

[Jeep-Power]

Dave, that is a good idea. I may have to try that. I have seen it done before only has a single rear cutting brake. For now I am just fixated on having those 2 extra handles to grab. :rolleyes: Always wanted to have this setup in the Jeep

Larry, didn't need all of those tools. Just the drill press and some hand taps. Here's how it all went down:

My conversation with CNC was fruitless. They told me there was nothing like what I wanted available. I looked around online and no one else offered anything that would work for me with the space available.

I figured there must be some drilled passageways connecting both of the cylinders and that it might be possible to block that passageway and form a new port for the second cylinder. So I went in to take a look and low and behold there was a 3 / 16" passageway connecting the 2 cylinders.


It was game on! I removed both pistons and drilled the cross passageway all the way through the other side of the cylinder casting. Then drilled that hole larger to allow it to be tapped to 1/8 NPT.




To avoid a nice little home for a bubble, I tapped both ends of the cross passageway to 1/4- 20 and using some Loctite (per CNC's instructions) to seal all the threads, cranked in some steel allen set screws. You can see the small passage way to the number 2 cylinder on the left side of the hole here.


here it is resembled is and ready to go! I'm stoked this was possible and so easy to do. :-)

[cell post]

[Fuzzy]

Dammmm! I thought you were going to start with a block of aluminum....