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~ The Barnacle ~ [CJ-7]

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  • #91
    Driveway heros

    So with the sun shining and the wind blowing, "Two Dolar" Bill and I dug into the clutch yesterday while Cookie guarded us against any stray scorpions...

    Driveshafts, skids, and ladderbar out...


    D300 out...


    T-18 safety...


    "Two Dollar" Bill... thanks for the help Bill! =D>


    the boat anchor is out...


    The culprit.... let it be known that I bought this bellhousing from Rob K.... :-k
    'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
    1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

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    • #92
      It looks broke...thats probably your problem!!!
      Kevin

      My Buggy Build Thread

      Jeremy's CJ

      2007 JK Unlimited

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      • #93
        I gave a 3 year, 36K warranty. Its well beyond that :D
        Robert Kosinski
        http://robertkosinski.zenfolio.com/
        http://www.youtube.com/user/rocksteadyrobk

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        • #94
          I wouldn't call that broken. It looks about a glob of JB Weld and a few strips of duct tape away from being brand new.

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          • #95
            It was a pleasure... I told you living around the block would come in handy.

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            • #96
              With that new XJ-- I'm sure I'll be recipricating the favor!


              Update-- I cleaned the D300 & T-18 and threw them on the bench-

              The D300 front output has a bit of excess endplay-- the dial indicator said something like 0.015". Tolerance is 0.001 - 0.005. 8-[ So I yanked out two 0.008 shims (yeah, that equals 0.016) and it sat perfectly at 0.001" of play-- go figure! :-s

              With the T-18-- I removed the top and PTO cover-- found no significant chips on the magnet and everything inside looked pristine. Not bad for 100K+ miles! I slapped it all together and called it a night...

              If I haven't mentioned it enough today-- JerseyJoe surprised me this AM with a knock on the store's back door with a bell housing in his hand! I didn't even know he was coming... It wasn't a Lakewood, but I don't care! THANKS ONE MORE TIME JOE! Another HUGE benifit of the club-- generous folks with the parts we need...

              So I'm ready to put this thing back together... first need to clean up the clutch surfaces (it isn't a good idea to add *a little* grease to the trans slpines). I have to say, there is little to no wear onthe pressure plate and flywheel! I will always take more good news. :)
              'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
              1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

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              • #97
                So, I was all ready to slap the clutch back on when I noticed a chipped tooth on the flywheel ring gear! #-o

                I thought about it for a moment, and chose not to tempt fate-- I removed the flywheel to have a new ring gear installed.

                When I got it off -- I noticed that actually 3 teeth were chipped off-- each 60 degrees apart from each other... must be a I-6 thing as far as where the engine stops every time-- one of 6 places on the flywheel. :-k



                Now... I had this (now chipped) ring gear installed a few years ago while i was having the flywheel resurfaced. I began to wonder if it was faulty. Upon getting the new ring geared flywheel back, there is a difference in ring gears. The newest one has rounded tooth valleys, where the chipped one has square valleys. Those square valleys definitely didn't help in keeping things the way they are supposed to be.



                Upon further inspection, the chipped ring gears teeth were square on the engagement (front) side. So when the starter gear shot out to engage with it, it would sometimes slam directly into the face of the gear-- I wondered if this helped chip those missing teeth off. With this in mind, I thought to bevel the ring gear teeth in the same way the starter teeth were. First I tried it with a cut-off wheel.



                I wasn't keen on the ridge it left in the valley area and the wheel was difficult to keep form hitting the teeth themselves. So I switched to a well worn grinding wheel.



                much better!





                now, somewhere between now and then, I also took the time to check how centered and parallel the bellhousing was. Well, it wasn't. Partially due to the bock plate being worn (caused by loose block-to-bellhousing bolts) and partially due to a worn bellhousing where the block mates to it (also due to loose block-to-bellhousing bolts). So-- am either going to make or purchase a steel block plate and the bellhousing is out to the machine shop...


                for those that are wondering-- the 4.2 aluminum block plate


                see that little lip-- about .005 of wear




                it may seem like overkill to the inexperienced. A little history... I was going through clutch disks biannually. The metal center sections were cracking apart and the inner splines were getting all chewed up. It was due to the bellhousing being about 0.020 out of parallel with the flywheel. (therefore making the trans input shaft and the crankshaft out of line with each other) Tolerance is something like 0.005. The bellhousing bore has to be checked too-- it also has to be within .005 of the rotating axis... stay tuned! :D
                'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

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                • #98
                  I'll light the match, if you can not.

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                  • #99
                    Keep Hope alive!!!! Don't give in to the dark side!!!!

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                    • PETER

                      PETER IF YOU NEED A BLOCK PLATE YOU KNOW WHO TO ASK..


                      DELIVERY FASTER THAN UPS!!!!!!

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                      • Originally posted by Jeep-Power
                        I was going through clutch discks bianually. The metal center sections were cracking apart and the inner splines were getting all chewed up. It was due to the bellhousing being about 0.020 out of parrallel with the flywheel. (therefore making the trans input shaft and the crankshaft out of line with each other) Tolerance is something loke 0.005. The bellhousing bore has to be checked too-- it also has to be within .005 of the rotating axis...
                        What does your pilot bushing look like after each teardown?
                        With this amount of misalignment I'm surprised you were even able to set the input shaft into the bushing.

                        I'm assuming everything assembled properly for you.

                        But I'm wondering.... To have such a misalignment would most likely be difficult to install and would probably offer up some feedback in the form of a slight vibration when the clutch was engaged.

                        Could the damage to your splines be caused by soemthing else?
                        i.e. wrong spline size on disk? I ran into this issue when I was shopping around for the clutch for my conversion..

                        The Ford T18 has a 1-1/16" diameter, ten spline input shaft .

                        Most other common clutches host 1-1/8" 10 spline input shafts...i.e. T4 or T5, NV3550/4550...

                        If you simply kept your old clutch and from your T5 when you did the T18 swap and just replaced it based on your model year and what was in it or the current clutch model #.. this could certainly cause a problem and failure just as you described...

                        But you commonly use dial calipers and micrometers to adjust things that dont normally need adjusting .... so I know this cant be the case...

                        But if this one slipped past you..my money is on the clutch disk hub spline size..

                        It's not uncommon..
                        Most people dont even try to fit clutch disks on the input shaft prior to installation, they just lock it under the pressure plate and go to town bolting it down assuming that the part is the correct one.

                        This may also explain why in the past you stated that you never needed to use an alignment tool to get your input shaft into the pilot bushing during installation. ( Ahhhh, I see....lots more room to wiggle around )

                        slip it on and check the slop.. betcha it's loose....well maybe not....

                        Somtimes I forget who I am replying to, but since I commited to posting I may as well finish up...

                        Just informing the masses of the differances between clutches and trannys..


                        Clutch (The Band)

                        VS.

                        Trannies (Those silly boys)

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                        • Originally posted by eric
                          I'll light the match, if you can not.
                          No can do Dobs-- I won't have anything to drive to work! [-X
                          'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                          1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

                          Comment


                          • Jon-- the trouble with the clutch disc and splines was remedied years ago-- it is the reason I now dial-indicate the bellhousing. I don't want a repeat performance. 8-[

                            Yeah-- when I did the trans swap, I contemplated (for a second) running the (virtually new) T-4 clutch on the T-18. It was close :D

                            With that shot disc-- only the splines on the disc were shot(and of course the disc assembly too - I wish I had pics)-- amazingly the trans input shaft was fine-- is still to this day. Yeah, there wasn't any vibration and I don't know how I got the input shaft in the pilot bushing-- it must have been on the loose side!
                            'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                            1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

                            Comment


                            • Joe-- thanks again for the steel block plate! =D>


                              While waiting for clutch/bellhousing stuff, The Mad Patter and I yanked the D30 out of the front end--

                              Upon cracking the case open, we found that the 6mm bolts that hold the carrier together had walked out-- one of them was pinned in between the ring gear and housing. It looks like the lock collars ARE needed! #-o

                              So I ordered 6 new bolts (just in case) and lock collars, along with a new collar with O-rings (with the copper line-- the old style I have is steel-- very difficult to work with!) and a new style bulkhead fitting.






                              before and after of the locking collars. I also blew the threaded holes out with brake clean. They torque to 125 in lbs. :D The locking tabs then tap on with the corner up against the carrier housing.





                              setting up the gears and ARB with new air ring

                              'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                              1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

                              Comment


                              • The Barnicle is back on the road-- planning on wheeling it tomorrow.

                                It all went back together smoothly -- to fast to take any pics.

                                Here are a few of interest-- the grinding I did when I clocked the t-case.









                                I also took the opportunity to weigh the things-

                                the T-18 weighs in at 143lbs, dry. The D300 weighs in at 88 lbs, dry

                                No pics yet, but I ended up fabricating a replacement inspection plate out of 1/4" steel-- this will help prevent the clutch linkage from snapping off the bellhousing again! :D
                                'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                                1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

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