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~ The Barnacle ~ [CJ-7]

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  • ~ The Barnacle ~ [CJ-7]

    Known as "The Barnacle" ... it is a 1984 CJ-7. I picked it up in 1989 as a vehicle to go back and forth to school in Rhode Island with. It was bone stock and had 34,000 on the odometer-- a creampuff.

    It is still my daily driver- also doubles as my plow, trail and tow rig (for the pop-up camper).

    From it's simple beginnings, it now boasts: - 4.2 bored 0.030 (now 4.3), balanced, w/ 4.0 head and MPI, Centerforce Clutch, T-18, D300 w/Lo-Max 4:1 & clocked flat, CV shafts F&R, front axle: D30 w/ ARB, Yukon shafts and joints, rear axle: M20(thanks Mike!), - shaved & trussed w/ ARB, Summers Brothers shafts, disc brakes & U-bolt flip kit, 4" BDS springs w/ RS9000's in the rear, 34 x 9.50 TSL's w/Staun internal beadlocks on 15 x 7.5 OEM chrome wagons, York OBA w/ tank, electric cooling fan, grafted in 1/4" steel rockers, 6 point cage w/ padding : ), Hundai Tiberon seats, Warn M8000 w/ in-cab-control & masterpull synthetic, HD shackles, HD steering box brace, CB radio, Prodigy brake control, 4 point belts, hydro snow plow pump/valving for plowing snow, roughly 300,000 miles, home made muffler & exhaust, brushed/rolled on paint, patched body.

    here are a few things that I have done to it:

    CLICK HERE 4.0 Head/EFI conversion -- this was the second conversion I did-- the first was to mine.

    CLICK HERE for the D300 rebuild with the Lomax 4:1 install

    Well, I finally accrued all the necessary parts and reasons to tuck into the respiratory upgrades for my H.O. I-6.

    My goal is a late model intake, stainless performance header with a full 2.25" stainless exhaust, larger injectors, and bored throttle body.

    I started with removing the manifolds from the drivers side of the engine.

    I had been running the OEM header since I did the 4.0 head swap 3 years ago. The tubing was small (1.75" I.D.) and bombed out due to numerous exhaust retrofits, battles with rocks, and general 4 wheeling carnage.

    The muffler I had made about 10 years ago out of a old water filled SS fire extinguisher. It has held up very well, and will be spruced up (again) and installed on the Willys.

    The new stainless steel header I bought off Ebay for about $210 (including shipping). As far as I can tell it is exactly what Banks sells as their Torque Tube. This is the SS409 model. Pictured below, before I cut the flange off it, laying on top of the old header.

    Here are the "new" and "old" intake manifolds. The 'new ' one is (as far as I know) from '99-'06 4.0's. The 'old' manifold is from '91 - '98 4.0's. I have heard a ton of hype on the late model manifolds that claimed a ton of power increase by installing it. You can clearly see the octopus like design of the late model.

    the earlier model has the runners branching off each other

    the late model has all the runners meeting in the plenum, which is much larger than the earlier models'. The equal length runners to each cylinder gives them all the same advantage as far as air delivery. I wish I had this manifold on my 258 years ago!

    I had a bunch of figuring to do with the exhaust routing, as I was planning on enlarging the exhaust pipe to 2.5" O.D. I first has to cut off the OEM style exhaust flange.

    It all took a bunch if times of installing, tacking and rechecking the fit and placement of the parts-- at least 10 times... here is the final result- the header pipe travels strait down, underneath the clutch linkage. Note the O2 sensor bung.

    I have installed a hanger on the pipe to allow the header to be bolted to the engine/transmission assembly. I have found this GREATLY reduces the stresses on the header and allows it to remain crack free for a MUCH longer time.

    To establish a serviceable joint between the header and the rest of the exhaust, I have grown fond of using stainless steel plumbing unions. Using copious amounts of anti-seize when installing and then copious amounts of WD-40 upon removal allows for a maintenance free joint. They hold up very well, provide a great seal, and don't require any sort of gasket.

    Here is the one that was removed

    I have found that the facets on the nut can make it difficult to get the wrench in just-the-right spot, so I turned the new one smooth on the lathe. It will allow for quick work with a chain wrench. :D

    For anyone wondering what a chain wrench is.

    The only trouble spot with the late model intake manifold swap is that the power steering pump brackets don't line up -- at all. For starters, I didn't like how close the one bolt hole/mount was to the power steering pump, so I cut it off and cleaned it up.

    I then fabbed up a few little parts, tacked them together in-place, took it off and welded it up solid. I was a little fearful from what I has heard about this part of the install, but it went quickly and easily.

    It was then time to install the throttle body, but not before 'boring it out' which entails removing the 'choke' from it's bore. The choke is located below the throttle plate. Again-- having a lathe comes in handy. For those that know the notorious whistle that comes with the 4.0 throttle body, this boring seems to have quieted it down quite a bit.

    I installed the freshly painted fuel rail, along with the slightly over-sized HESCO 23.2 lb/hr (black -pn 53030778) injectors. This is to make up for the larger throttle body and the increase in displacement from 4.0l to 4.3l (it's a bored 258 bottom end). Note the fuel pressure gauge and adjustable HESCO fuel pressure regulator. I adjusted it to just under the stock 39 lbs., with the vacuum line disconnected.

    Running-- I have clear coated the intake to keep it nice and shiny for a while-- we'll see how the lacquer holds up to the underhood temps. Especially with parts of it being right next to the exhaust. 8-[

    - the cat ( I reused the one pictured above) and muffler (Dynomax all stainless glasspack -- ebay $20 brand new!) are together.

    straight through... that is the cat honeycomb down there


    As for the performance of it all-- well, it certainly has a bit more throttle snap! It accelerates much smoother and has a bit more all through the power range. It was worth the $$, time and materials. I am planning to get it on a dyno some time this winter.

    It sure sounds cool.Throaty but not booming.

    Huge thanks to Absolute Auto and Sean Ivey for all the stainless tube, Ebay for the great prices, and Marc Salvatore for the injectors and intake manifold! Biggest thanks to Joanna for allowing me to play with and build my toys!

    'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
    1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys

  • #2
    looking good!


    • #3
      Sweet tech, Peter! I like it.
      Chris Barnes - Former NJJC President, Wannabe Fabricator, Errant Mechanic
      I fix stuff by a little bit of trial, a lot of error, and a TON of bad words!
      2001 TJ, upgraded as broken


      • #4

        Great tech article with awesome pics. What's the cost breakdown?


        • #5
          geeeeez your just putting the injectors in now? :D


          • #6
            Thanks guys.

            Paul, out of pocket, I had to buy the injectors- $100, the muffler - $30 with shipping, the header was about $215 with shipping.

            I've been accruing these parts for about 4 years now...

            A few Tech threads of mine that I want to include:

            York OBA Oil fix

            4.0 Sensor/EFI Gremlins

            My AGR Power Steering Experience (Go with PSC!)

            Homebuilt Driveshaft Thread

            'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
            1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys


            • #7
              Say... whatcha doin with that old down pipe?

              haha, nevermind.. you have it all wierded out with that plumbing flange..

              nice job! \:D/


              • #8
                still have it all. you can have it all and take what you like. I'm planning on scrapping the old manifold anyway.
                'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys


                • #9
                  Yea.. ok I'll take what ya got to get rid of.. I'km going to start doing my exhaust this week.. any head start is a good start.



                  • #10
                    whats the deal?
                    where's the expansion joints?


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by CB87YJ
                      whats the deal?
                      where's the expansion joints?
                      That's true... the newer designed Jeep TJ ones do not crack like the pre 2000 without the expansion joints... Big problem with TJ's people seem to go through the old ones once a year or so.


                      • #12
                        The one I replaced is the OEM '91 header-- no expansion joints.
                        'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                        1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys


                        • #13
                          Well, keeping with the theme of alot of other threads around here, I've been busting my hump getting the Barnacle ready for Moab.

                          First thing was to replace the driverside fender-- picked up one from Billy P. I had to straighten it out a bit, weld a few cracks, and cut off the lower body line flare-- then graft in a hunk of 3/16 angle for rock protection. Here's the drives side with the same treatment;

                          With the fenders and grille off-- I was able to get to the power steering box-- tore the old one out and traded it in for a NAPA rebuilt one. I drilled and tapped the passenger side tabs to connect the brace to-- aslo milled the ear areas flat.
                          This thing cost me $170 out of pocket-- the core deposit was about the same price! It was the one I put in about 100K miles ago-- so this is my third 'steering gear' in this CJ.

                          For anyone wondering-- this is a 'o-ring' style box. here's one of the crushed o-rings in place. It will be replaced with a new one on reassembly.

                          Also in order was to replace/rebuild the loose steering shaft. I refuse to spend the $200+ on one of those fancy SS shafts. The upper u-joint was still nice and tight, even after 100K miles! So I picked up the $30 rebuild kit (4WD Hardware) for the lower CV joint--

                          Here' s peek inside-- the rebuild kit includes the two square things you see here as well as the tempered sheet metal spring. It also includes a new boot and outer housing. Lube it all up with some grease and whola -- no more play! I was very happy with the results!

                          A couple tips on rebuilding the lower joint-- carefully pound out (with a brass hammer) the pin -- it makes getting the boot on ALOT easier. I held this one in a vise. Be sure to reassemble it with the spline clamps in the same position as when you took them apart-- otherwise your steering wheel will be upside down! (ask me how I know). The other thing is this spring-- start reassembly with the straight end-- the bent end ends up overlaying the straight end.

                          I took the opportunity to replace the lower steering columb bearing and adapter. It has had play for atleast 10 years.

                          next up was the set of MORE 'Bombproof' motor mounts-- I scored these slightly used ones off of CJ for $100. I had noticed a while ago that the aftermarket "Heavy Duty" driverside urethane motor mount would separate when jacking up the transmission assembly-- These MORE units are WAY better than the OEM setup and the aftermarket replacements-- I wish had gone with these years ago! Yeah, there is a lot more drivetrain feel with any of these urethane mounts, but the amount of torque the drivetrain produces while rock crawling is unbelievable and makes them necessary (in my opinion). These will be very able to deal with it and help preserve the exhaust header and trans mount.

                          the comparison

                          the broken mount-- these were either Prothane or Energy Suspension units-- junk! Right above the bolt head, on the right half, you can see the small section of metal that was holding the two halves together-- a section 1/8" x 1/2" -- how the hell is that supposed to hold back thousands of lb/ft of torque??

                          last but not least was the clutch linkage. Yes-- I kept the OEM mechanical linkage [-( -- again, cheap and easy to get back into shape-- I do not have the time to convert the hydro system and work out any potential bugs-- this system of rods, springs, and levers has served well for 24 years. Why fix something that isn't broken??

                          What I did 'fix' was something that was in the process of breaking-- the ends of the clutch linkage were just metal on metal-- straight out of the factory. Here you can see the 300K+ wear on the one that was inside-- the exterior points had failed me years ago. So I finally finished converting the entire system to rod ends. NAPA has these--

                          ground it down to 5/16 OD on the bench grinder and threaded it with a 5/16 - 24 die

                          NAPA part number for the rod-ends

                          Stay tuned for home-made inverted U-bolts & steering box skid before we move on to the rear axle! :D
                          'Tall' Peter -- Former NJ Resident
                          1962 CJ-5 ~ 1984 CJ-7 ~ 2008 JKUR ~ R/C Toys


                          • #14
                            Nice work, Peter!


                            • #15
                              Nice work Pete...can't wait to see this thing in Moab!!!

                              My Buggy Build Thread

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                              2007 JK Unlimited